We untied the lines from the lock wall and were on our way early in the morning. It was the Friday of Labor Day weekend and we were warned to get to our destination, Bobcaygeon, by 2pm to hopefully secure a spot. As Saturday was the Captain’s birthday, we have some celebrating to do. The sun glistened off the water as we turned around each corner entering the Kawartha Lakes on this leg of our journey. Clear Lake was the first of over 250 lakes and rivers in the Kawartha region we were going to be navigating. Granted, we weren’t going to travel on each and every passage, but the maze of water trails was mind-blowing. The lake would widen in certain areas and we could pick up a little speed, but we were basically going 7 mph the whole way. I was actually tempted to unstrap my bike from the bow and ride to the next town and wait at the lock for the boat to pass through. But, I’ve learned to bite my tongue with such sarcasm as to not receive the lecture yet again on how much gas we burn if the boat is up to a certain RPM and not on a plane. Duane tries to rationalize that the boat burns a gallon of fuel quicker than I can drink a glass of wine in hopes I will stop trying to grab the throttle when he’s not looking.
After the ten mile stretch on Clear Lake, we came face to face with Hell’s Gate and straight onto Stoney Lake. We were warned not to take these areas lightly and stuck to the channel as rocks were awash in every direction. As breathtakingly beautiful as the trip was, it possessed a hold your breath factor around every corner.
There were intriguing sights to see along the way as the small islands seemed to be inhabited by only one residence. Everyone seemed to have their own private oasis and there was even a church right off the channel which could only be attended by arriving by boat or some sort of water craft.
Once we passed Pigeon Lake, Lock 32, the oldest lock on the Trent-Severn which was the home of Bobcaygeon, was in our sights. It was just before the 2pm witching hour and we skated right into a perfect spot. At this point we have traveled for 21 days straight and were excited to have some extra downtime. Once the boat was secure and power hooked up, we took off into town which was buzzing with activity. It was a relatively small town which, in essence, they all have been, and we did some window shopping at the local stores. No matter how many locks we have gone through, Duane is still enthralled by the mechanics of the whole process and could watch the boats rise and fall and the gates open and close for hours. This being the Houseboat Capital of Ontario provided more entertainment than most on the locks as the renters of the floating homes were not all that skilled in maneuvering through the water. You bet Bella Donna had extra fenders out to ward off any wayward aluminum “mobile” residences. That night we had a pre-birthday drink at a local bar, 72 Bistro. I had made it to the Dollarama in the previous town and was able to put up some birthday decorations to surprise the Captain the next morning.
After opening his gifts…I think the bungee cords were the highlight…we dropped by a neighborhood store, Kicking Cowgirl, and bought the Captain these sought after shoes our Harbor Host had been wearing the prior day. Pam and Gary were gracious hosts who provided us with a welcome packet of coupons and maps for the area and their daughter just happened to own the store. As per many recommendations, we had lunch at Just for the Halibut. Very deceiving by the worn down facade, the inside opened up into a tastefully decorated establishment with dining space around each corner. Next on the birthday tour was Kawartha Dairy for some ice cream. In business for over 80 years, all the products are fresh and made from milk and produce obtained exclusively from the outlying Ontario farms. Cones in hand we walked around the neighborhood and admired the homes with their front porch swings and manicured lawns. The Water’s Edge restaurant had a beautiful view of the lake so we sat on the back porch for an appetizer and some drinks.
After a long day, we went back to the boat and opened a bottle of champagne. All rested in the morning, we took off for the next town, Fenelon Falls, where we were staying the night. Much like Bobcaygeon, Fenelon was a small town swarming with tourists and locals alike trying to get the last licks out of summer. We grabbed a freshly made pizza from Slices and Scoops on the boardwalk which literally closed for the season two hours later. While the pizza was being made, we dropped by to visit with Pam and Gary at their store, Water Street Clothesline, and I purchased a Loop T-shirt. Day 3 of the birthday celebration was now in full swing so we purchased some pastries at My Little Pie Shack and indulged our sweet tooth by the lake. All showered and cleaned up, the Fenelon Brewery was a short walk from dinner, so we decided to partake in some beverages. Not realizing they had just opened for business a few weeks prior, due to certain licenses, we were only able to purchase beer to go. Oh well…we sat by the pier and cracked open a cold one. Compliments of Duane’s mom, Jean, and his sister, Lisa, I made reservations at Orchid Thai Bistro for dinner. The meal was phenomenal and, to boot, we had plenty of leftovers for a nice engine lunch on our travels the next day.
It was cold, rainy and windy the next morning. Entering Balsam Lake, we were headed for our second lift lock in the town of Kirkfield. Kirkfield is the second highest hydraulic lift lock in the world at 49 feet. This time, though, we will be going down. At 840.5 feet above sea level, the top of the lock was the highest point on the Trent-Severn. Descending in the lock provided a much different experience than going up. Seeming to go much faster on the drop, I definitely had butterflies in my stomach. All downhill from here, we had to make a mental note that the red and green buoys will reverse sides from here on out.
The Trent Canal was the narrowest water we have passed through thus far. The next five locks were spread out over less than four miles so I just sat on the bow between each one and enjoyed the scenery and watched for rocks. About a mile and a half after Lock 41, we passed through the Lakeshore Road Swing Bridge arriving at the entrance of Lake Simcoe. The crossing is about 15 miles and, since the buoys are placed so far apart, our GPS charts would navigate us safely across. After speaking to the bridge operator, we decided to tie up on the wall right at the breakwater and cross the lake in the morning when the prevailing winds were to be in our favor. The operator was a sweet woman who instructed us where to tie up as to avoid the submerged logs and her prized turtles. As the sun set, Duane pulled out the multi-purpose boat hook and went apple picking. Another great and eventful day on the water.
Watching out for the turtles
Apple picking