Departing Brunswick we slowly passed by the crane which was being used to help remove the soon to be dismantled Golden Ray cargo ship which had capsized last year filled with over 4,000 brand new cars on the way to Baltimore. Once on the St. Simon Sound, we were able to catch a glimpse of the half submerged ship on the horizon. Of course, Duane was trying to figure out a way to get close enough to salvage some parts….boat or car it didn’t matter to him.
As we discussed what an extremely bad idea that was, our attention was diverted to the onslaught of green headed flies which had suddenly found refuge on our boat. Grabbing the bug zapper, we took turns smacking the flies off the fly bridge. Good thing I played softball in my younger days, as the follow through on the home run swing was key. If not, the stunned monster would return with a vengeance. The Mackay River was surrounded by marshes and the flies were relentless for the first few hours of our day. Once they subsided, we enjoyed the scenery and the birds which had begun to torpedo themselves into the water in an attempt for an afternoon snack. We started to rate their attempts based on entry form and speed of recovery out of the water and of course if their efforts were successful and they emerged with a meal. Though some aborted their mission at the last second, the agility to spot their prey and pinpoint their location was amazing and a true example of the many fascinating creatures that inhabit the earth. It was a relatively relaxing, but long, travel day as we motored around the twists and turns of the Little Mud River onto the North River. We waved a friendly Hello to a shrimp boat, Grave Digger, which passed off our stern while dredging for their pay load. But, other than that, we saw no other boaters all day. We found our perfect anchorage spot in Tom Creek just in time to be treated to a fabulous sunset.
It was another hot hot night and we barely slept finding ourselves sitting in the salon with the battery powered fans most of the night. The two detriments to anchoring in the beautiful creeks and lakes at this time of the year was the heat and the bugs. And, as our generator was not able to run the air conditioning and the windows had to be sealed shut at night, we were pretty uncomfortable on these particular evenings.
Splashing cold water on my face, I got myself together and went outside to hoist the anchor around sunrise. I was much more comfortable pulling the anchor up in the morning than letting it loose at the end of a trip. More than once the crank had gotten away from me and the anchor chain uncontrollably spilled into the water almost ripping free from the bow. Needless to say, the Captain was in agreement with these new arrangements after the last violent mishap when he thought I lost a finger.
It was a few hour trip to Isle of Hope Marina in Savannah. The water was clearer on this stretch of the ICW and all along the way families were enjoying themselves swimming and paddling around. Once we passed Skidaway Narrows, we were close to our destination and were soon tied up at the dock ready to explore the town. We walked the Savannah waterfront and historic district taking in all the sights. The cobblestone streets gave the area an old time feel and we stumbled upon the landmark steps which seemed a little more than dangerous to try and descend. We ended up taking the long way around and decided to go to the Chart House for some appetizers. Duane pretty much ordered one of everything on the Happy Hour menu. Before heading back to the marina to return the courtesy car, we were able to squeeze in a wine tasting at the Georgia Tasting Room and get a wine slushie to go as well as stop by Byrd’s Famous Cookies where Duane piled a box sky high with an assortment of fresh baked cookies. Back at the marina by early evening, we took the bikes around the area and then sat on the dock and enjoyed the rest of the night.
We were able to borrow the car the next morning so we headed off to Tybee Island and walked to City Pier. The beach was a welcome sight and I wished I had my bathing suit with me so I could take a refreshing dip. The car was not signed out for the next few hours so we headed over to the Crab Shack for lunch. Alligators were the main attraction here and I was able to feed a few babies…at a respectable distance away. The feel of the place was more like the backwoods meets swamp land, but the food was delicious.
One last stop before heading back….the lighthouse. The recurring main attraction throughout our journey, we felt compelled to visit whenever there was a lighthouse at a reasonable distance from where we were staying. Surrounded by palm trees, but closed due to Covid, we were able to get close enough to get a selfie.
We decided to take an Uber back to the waterfront to spend our last evening in town. First stopping at Moon River Brewing Co., I was torn between the selection so I ordered a flight of 10 samples. Duane settled on his go to wheat beer. After, we explored a few shops, returned for another tasting at the Georgia Tasting Room and a to go slushie of course, walked along the water to see the Queen Mary and went to listen to music at a local bar in the courtyard. While we were waiting to call the Uber back to the marina, we ordered a pizza to eat on the bench by the square and struck a conversation up with a couple from the area who ended up driving us home when the Uber was a no show. Southern hospitality at its finest once more.
Savannah was our last stop in Georgia and definitely a highlight despite being hindered somewhat by the virus. After showering in the morning, we left the dock, passed some barges, and were soon through the Elba Island Cut and at mile 575.5 crossed into South Carolina. Idling by Hilton Head Island we caught a glimpse of how the other half lived as we passed one yacht after another and all their fancy toys. The tenders of some were bigger than our boat and Duane joked about hooking a line to one yacht and catching a ride. Crossing the Port Royal Sound onto the Beaufort River, we anchored outside the Downtown Marina in Beaufort, SC. Lowering Baby Belle into the water, I grabbed the foot pump to fill up one of the tubes since the patch had come loose and there was a slow leak. Once the gear was aboard, we cruised to the dinghy dock and tied up. Beaufort was a quaint little town with historic homes along the waterfront and little shops along the main street. Henry C Chambers Waterfront Park was a scenic stretch and strolling back along Bay Street we noticed some beautifully preserved old homes. Hemingway’s was the first place that caught our eye, so we walked in to ask for a dinner recommendation. The bar was dark mahogany wood with memorabilia and photos adorning the walls and the bartender explained how many places were closing early due to the pandemic. Pouring us a glass of wine, he gave us a few options to consider. We decided on the closest restaurant to the bar and ended up having a delicious BBQ dinner at Q on the Water. It was getting late….9pm is Looper midnight they say…and we were pulling anchor at sunrise so we made our way back to the dinghy. It was another sleepless and hot night and I dreamed of being at the marina with the air conditioner pumping in Charleston in two days.
Ready to move on, we left the anchorage at day break and were praying for some wind. I had the battery powered fan around my neck most of the day now as we traveled. Crossing under the Lady Island Bridge, we took turns driving and trying to cool off. Neither of us wanted to retrieve any food off the hot engine as of late, so lunches consisted mostly of pasta salads and tuna sandwiches. The Ashepoo River had a terrible current and at times I felt as if we were standing still. Pushing through to Watt’s Cut, we finally gained our speed back (which is a lot for me to say at 7 mph) and watched the depth as it was registering 4 feet in some sections. The landscape was breathtaking and around 5:30 we dropped anchor off the Stono River next to a sand bar. Traffic passing through the channel rocked us for a few hours and we sat on the bow watching the sun sink below the horizon. By 9pm all was quiet and I was plotting out the course and schedule for tomorrow as usual and the Captain was deciding on what to watch on Netflix. It was rare we had good service and could enjoy the normalcy of watching a movie. It was a hot, but bearable night, and we both slept soundly.
It was a short travel day to Charleston and we planned to stay at least two days to explore. I awoke to a spectacular sunrise through the port side window and ran out to capture the colors on my camera. However, the picture rarely captures the complete beauty of what you see…fortunately memories last forever. Crawling back in bed, I lay silent thinking for the next hour of the amazing journey we have had and excited for what was to come. The Captain had researched the tides and current and wanted to leave at the optimum time to get a big push. And he was spot on…Once we were underway the current of the Elliott Cut propelled us to 10.3 mph at only 1300 RPM running on one engine. I was smiles from ear to ear.
The Charleston Maritime Center was a small marina next to the Aquarium and Liberty Square. Besides the tour boat which left from the marina twice a day, there was only one other transient boater tied up at the docks. Jeff, the dock master, came outside to give us some pertinent information and explained how the bathrooms were closed due to Covid, but I could use the laundry facility as long as I scheduled a time. He was most apologetic, but we knew it was not his fault.
We were soon on our way to town which was not a far walk from the marina and one of the reasons we choose to stay there. I had a list of sights to see and things to do while there for the next 50 hours, so we began to work through them one by one. Today’s lunch was fresh tuna tacos at Avon Street Fish and Raw Bar -an absolutely perfect and delicious choice. The temperature was starting to creep up as we walked around taking in the sights after lunch and we stopped by Blossom for a frozen bellini giving us a perfect chance to cool off. Out on the pavement again, we made our way over to the famous Rainbow Row for a photo op and then to Joe Riley Waterfront Park. The pastel colored historic homes which comprised Rainbow Row on East Bay Street were a definite tourist attraction as we patiently waited our turn as bachelorette parties and families were snapping shots to capture the moment. The pineapple fountain was a stand out on the waterfront, but was equally as difficult to get a picture of up close as a mother had stripped her kids down to their underwear and they were splashing in the fountain cooling off.
The Charleston City Market was set up in the middle of town selling a variety of handmade goods from local artists and craftsmen. Horse drawn carriages were carrying tourists about to the various attractions in the city on this extremely hot day. We ducked into the air conditioned Info Center under the guise of grabbing a few pamphlets and were pleasantly greeted by a woman behind the desk who drew us in with one statement…free stuff! After about thirty minutes we had signed up for a presentation the next morning once we were promised it was nothing like a time share gimmick and offered three free gifts for our time. Choosing a tour of Fort Sumter, a Haunted Jailhouse experience and a $75 dinner voucher we were intrigued by what the company called Travel Inspirations was all about.
The next stop on the self-guided tour was the O-Bar Oyster House where we indulged in a few appetizers and $1 oysters. The fresh oysters packed in ice were being carted in every few minutes and shucked by the bushel before our eyes. It had been a long day so far and, with only one more destination on today’s agenda, we ascended up to the Vendue Rooftop for a cocktail and to enjoy the view of the timeless city. We heard that Charleston was referred to as “the living museum” as the historic homes and buildings were inhabited by everyday people living and working amongst the grand architecture and vibrant culture beautifully preserved over hundreds of years.
Our appointment was at 11am so we slept in for the first time in a long while before showering and heading off to see the presentation. The gentleman giving the talk on behalf of Travel Inspirations was terrific and thoroughly entertaining, but not knowing our living/travel situation prior, could not have known their travel club would not suit us. Living on the boat, we were basically a moving hotel to any vacation location of our choosing so a service offering hotel and transportation discounts was not what we were looking for. True to their word, we thanked him for his time and were handed an envelope with our gifts.
Today’s lunch at Pearlz Oyster Bar rivaled yesterday’s delicious meal as we soon were realizing we couldn’t go wrong with any of our dining choices in town. I booked us for our two tours as we relished every bite of the fresh clams, oysters and shrimp. Walking over to Liberty Square, we explored the Fort Sumter museum before boarding the ferry which took us over to the island to walk the grounds of the fort. The rich history of the location was depicted throughout the museum and the stories of war and struggle told by the guides as we made our way across the harbor captivated us more than any history class we remembered. We walked through the barracks, up to the cannons lining the wall and around the crumpled stone and bricks which once fortified the grounds of the sea fort which was the site of the beginning of the American Civil War. We talked nonstop all the way back about all we did not know (or may have forgotten) about the Civil War and what that meant to our freedom today.
We had dinner reservations at Hank’s Seafood that evening. The restaurant, which resembled a Charleston Fish House, was number one on everyone’s recommendations so we were anxious to see how it was going to top the culinary experience we have had thus far. Duane also made the declaration that this was going to be my official birthday dinner and his treat (with the help of the $75 voucher, but I’ll take it). Needless to say, the food was out of this world. The pan seared sea scallops were so tender and melted in your mouth. But, the Seafood A La Wando won hands down. The savory flavor of the seafood medley coupled with the cream sauce was like nothing my taste buds had ever experienced. Half way between a food coma and a euphoric high, we strolled off to the haunted jailhouse tour –gift number three.
The temperature that night was still in the 80s and add that to the creepy building with no ventilation we were about to enter, I was skeptical of our gift choice. The stories of torture inflicted and experiments that were conducted within these walls was unimaginable. I had the feeling of being watched the whole time and almost freaked out when Duane jokingly (or so I thought) tried to lock me in one of the rooms alone. I had just about enough toward the end of the tour when a wheel chair appeared out of nowhere and we heard a scream. I did not know if I was sweating from the heat or fear, but I was looking for the exit. I know it was probably all staged, but I did not want to find out first hand if there really were supernatural beings at work. Breathing a sigh of relief once we were out under the night sky, I needed a glass of wine to calm my nerves.
I spent our last morning cleaning and doing laundry as Duane continued to work on fixing the salon air conditioner as we had been living off the cooling power of only the air conditioner in the V-berth. I thought the one air conditioner was just fine, but he needed to fix what was broken or he wouldn’t be happy. Unstrapping the bikes from the bow and rinsing them off, a cemetery tour was first on our agenda. Plotting our way through town, we explored the historic tombstones and monuments of the Magnolia and St. Lawrence cemeteries. Parts of the cemetery looked like no one had been there for many years as the brush and vines had overtaken the area and then other sections were meticulously groomed with fresh flowers blooming. It was a very dry day and the dust kicked up as we biked around the paths stumbling upon a fresh grave with the funeral arrangements surrounding the area like a security blanket. Realizing it was the grave of a young girl, we stopped and said a prayer and picked up some of the arrangements that had fallen over.
It was a few mile ride back to the boat, and the Captain’s belly was grumbling so we pulled in to Home Town BBQ for tater tots and wings and then peddled back and locked our bikes up outside the Charleston Beer Works Brewery so we could relax for a while. The rest of the day we leisurely biked around retracing some of our steps from the last three days and saw a few new ones —namely the American Theater on King Street which was featured in one of my favorite movies, The Notebook. We had only had a few snacks all day, so we decided on OKU Sushi for dinner. We always order way too many rolls and, as usual, I was struggling to finish realizing we still had to bike back to the marina. Heading over to Henry’s Rooftop after the meal to digest a little, this would be our last stop in historic Charleston. We grabbed a cocktail and reminisced about all we had managed to see and experience the last few days as the band played in the background. Charleston definitely ranked as one of my top 5 locations in the U.S. we have had the privilege to visit on the trip.
Back at the marina before it got too late, we loaded the bikes on to the boat and prepared for the travel day ahead. It should be about an 8 to 9 hour trip to our next destination and anchorage on Minim Creek….I only prayed for a breeze and no mosquitoes.